Neo-gemstones: An alchemical jeweller’s exploration of lab-grown crystals and related technologies, proposing innovations whilst challenging context, terminology, and underlying assumptions

Boons, Sofie

Abstract

With crystal growing techniques having been around since the 19th century, man-made crystals now drive innovations in various industries. However, this has not fully translated into the jewellery industry, where efforts to de-value them have limited scientific interest. A historical and contemporary review explores why innovations in man-made crystal materials within a jewellery context remain sparse. An investigation into the culture and context surrounding man-made crystals explores the differences between these crystals and their mined counterparts, with findings visualised through Critical Design. 'Neo-gemstone(s)' is proposed as alternative terminology for labelling novel man-made crystal materials in response to the identified need for the re-framing and re-naming of enhanced and designed crystal materials when used in a contemporary jewellery context. This thesis, furthermore, documents the creative potential of incorporating lab-grown gemstones through three case studies: using urban mined lab-grown waste gemstones; collaborating with scientists to develop and use novel crystals with unique properties, such as phosphorescence; and incorporating crystal growth technologies directly into a Neo-alchemical jeweller’s practice. These studies document the implications, possibilities, and limitations of using man-made crystals in jewellery. This alchemical exploration of lab-grown crystals and related technologies signifies innovations while challenging existing contexts, terminology, and assumptions, providing a comprehensive insight into the multiplicitous approaches possible within a contemporary jewellery practice.

• Thesis Type: Thesis
• Deposit Date: Jul 31, 2024
• Publicly Available Date: May 15, 2025
• Public URL: https://uwe-repository.worktribe.com/output/12721066
• Award Date: May 15, 2025